To Guide or Not to Guide – Nepal Edition
Just over a year ago I hiked the Annapurna circuit for two weeks with a group of five people from around the world. My biggest dilemma when planning my trip to Nepal was whether or not I should go with a tour, hirer a guide or hike independently – I’ve gathered my thoughts on the matter as well as my suggestions here, Enjoy!
A Tour
A tour is by far the most expensive option, especially if you book with an international company. There are different types of tours, but most will include a guide, porters, food and accommodation and could have anywhere between 10-20 people on them. They also vary a lot in price, but usually cost several hundred to several thousand dollars. They most often hike the well known trails like Everest base camp or Annapurna. They provide a great way to meet people and take the stress out of trip planning, but generally cost a lot more than if you were to organize your own guide in Nepal. There is also a misconception that group tours are safer, in some ways there are, but there are also more cases altitude sickness on tours because people feel the need to push themselves to keep up with the group.
Who should do it: I think group tours are best for people who are short on time or want to get to know a large group of people. Tours can be book before hand traveling to Nepal, both hiring a guide or hiking by yourself normally require a few days of prep either in Kathmandu or in Pokhara.
A Guide
A popular option for people or small groups is to hire a personal guide and sometimes a porter as well. These are less expensive than you think if you organize them once you land in Nepal – about $20 / 25 USD per day per guide and about $15 for a porter plus tip Split between several people getting a guide is a very affordable option. They will organized you’re accommodation and route for you as well as provide a level of safety and local knowledge. However guides can vary a lot in quality; some will try to rip you off and some will take pride in showing you their country. Try to hang around Pokhara or Kathmandu for a few days and ask people coming back from treks about their recommendations for guides. Don’t forget that along popular routes you can often find porters and occasionally guides for the day, particularly for difficult days like Throng-long Pass on the Annapurna Circuit. They will be more expensive then porters/guides hired for the full duration of your trek but could be option for particularly difficult days. However don’t plan your trip around the assumption that you will always be able to get a porter for difficult days. One of the best reasons to hire a guide is to contribute to the local economy and to learn more about the Nepalese culture. Tourism is Nepal’s biggest income source and the money paid to porters or guides can go a long way. Although guides are not normally needed for navigation most of the treks in Nepal are ‘cultural’ treks as in they go through farms or small villages rather than through wilderness. I would have enjoyed have someone who could have told me more about the surrounding area. Although consideration for a guide is language. Most Nepalese speak English quite well, but it is always nice to have some translation in some situations.
Who should do it: I would suggest hiring a guide to anyone who wants to avoid the stress of getting accommodation or route planning, particularly in on season where accommodation may be more difficult. Guides would also be a good option for people who are planning on trekking some of the less common routes. Generally if you can afford a guide
Independently
When I was planning my hike in Nepal I knew I was going to be short on money, but that I had a lot of time so I decided to hike independently. By independently I mean with out a guide, I still wanted to hike with some other trekkers. I went online to a website called trekkingpartners.com because I was a little nervous about meeting someone to hike with while in Nepal. In hindsight it would have been easy to meet someone at the time of year I was there, but I am glad that I organized that aspect of my trip before hand. Not only did the group I ended up hiking with get along well, it was also less stressful. Few people trek completely by themselves so there are lots of people looking for partners. If you do decide to trek by yourself please make sure that you buddy up for days like Throng-Long Pass, rule of thump is to hike in groups of three or more so that you have a safety net if anything goes wrong. The night before big days like Throng-Long Pass there will likely be individuals or duos looking to hike together the next day to meet that magic number 3. Hiking independently will mean that you have to pay more attention to the map and more importantly the altitude your gaining, but I actually found that aspect very enjoyable and navigation along most trails in very easy. Make sure that you listen to both your body and to locals advice particularly about the weather as it can change quickly in high altitudes. The best thing about hiking independently is that it is CHEAP! I was spending around $10 USD a day with out even trying.
Who should do it: I suggest hiking independently to anyone who has some experience trekking or is willing to do the research and who is on a low budget.
No matter how you choose to hike in Nepal it is really an exceptional experience, Nepal was one of my favourite countries during my travels. But please remember that you are hiking in a developing country, it is a different experience than hiking in North America or Europe and you should be careful of your impact while hiking as it is far reaching. There are a few things that you can do to make sure you are hiking responsibly. Please make sure you carry out as much of your own garbage as possible, and reduce the amount of garbage you bring with you. I know, I know, no-one wants to add more weight to their already heavy bag, but most of the mountain regions in Nepal have to waste disposal system. Seriously, can you imagine a garbage truck driving up to Throng-Long Pass? You can also avoid giving candy or chocolate to local children. I know it can sometimes be hard to resist, but it perpetuates the cycle of poverty and encourages begging. There are a lot more sustainable and beneficial ways for you to donate to local communities than giving gift of candy. Part of the reason I liked Nepal so much was that it was one of the most unique countries I visited, I would love to keep it that way for when I return (I’m coming for you Everest Base Camp)